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Ice climbing in Pitztal

Ice climbing in Pitztal

Conquer Tyrol’s top ice climbing routes

Ice climbers are can’t wait for the cold season to start, when Tyrol’s waterfalls freeze and snow and ice rule in Pitztal. The valley’s 45 waterfalls usually freeze from December onwards and offer ice climbers ideal conditions to practise their sport until the end of March.

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Ice climbing guide
Ice climbing guide
Ice climbing route at Pitztaler Gletscher
Ice climbing route at Pitztaler Gletscher
Ice climbing gear
Ice climbing gear
Ice climbing for newcomers & advanced climbers in Pitztal
Ice climbing for newcomers & advanced climbers in Pitztal

Newcomers...

For newcomers to this adventurous hobby the Eis Total Festival in January, which is led by professional mountain guides is ideal. The varied ice climbing in the Taschachklamm [Klamm = gorge] with different levels of difficulty is especially suited. Ice climbing beginners will also find the Kitzgartenklamm with its 15 different ice climbing routes perfect during the cold winter season.

Advanced climbers...

Advanced climbers will find an exceptional variety of ice climbing routes in Pitztal in Tyrol. Some of the most spectacular routes boast up to 190 metres icefall and can, in parts, be easily accessed with a short ascent from the valley. Athletes can find the highest ice climbing routes of Tyrol at Pitztal Glacier’s impressive ice world: six icefalls offer a breath-taking ice climbing experience in the eternal ice and snow. Ice climbing is possible all year around in some places here.

Current conditions at the icefalls...

Pitztal’s mountain guides will happily provide information about the weather and avalanche conditions at the icefalls. You can find more information here: Ice News (in German)

Professional courses...

They also offer professional courses regarding ice-climbing technique. Equipment such as ice axes and crampons can be hired from our outdoor specialists at the same time.

Ice climbing in the ice world at Pitztaler Gletscher
Ice climbing Pitztaler Gletscher

All ice climbing routes, access and signposting regarding the icefalls are included in the sports climbing guide Sportklettern – Klettersteige – Eisklettern published by AMBerg Verlag. You can order the sports climbing guide directely in our webshop. Furthermore you can find the Ice climbing topographies of Pitztal here (in German). Those who still haven’t had enough of ice climbing can burn off more energy at an indoor climbing centre, the Kletterstadl in Stillebach.

Stillebach / Luibisfall

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt
Moderate difficult, long and well-sloped icefall. After each level, it is possible to exit the icefall. Often used for courses.

Risk of avalanches: hardly

Weixmannstall / Monsterline

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt
Extremely difficult, very steep icefall. This icefall is one of the most challenging in Tyrol. In the middle-part, it goes through a 200 meter high, flat gully up until the upper.

Risk of avalanches: yes

Weixmannstall / Seirlöcherkogelfall

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt
Very beautiful and long icefall. Divided by walking terrain. The first rope length WI 5 could be bypassed via a long leftward curve. In the upper part, there is a possibility to climb an easy or difficult line.

Risk of avalanches: yes

Trenkwald / Mattl

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt
Westward facing Icefall with interesting and steep pitches at the exit

Risk of avalanches: yes

Trenkwald / Murlehnfall

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt
Interesting westward facing Icefall with easily reachable starting point.

Risk of avalanches: yes
 

Plangeroß / Bachtrattle

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt
Very beautiful and long icefall faced to the west
 
Risk of avalanches: yes

Plangeroß / Hexenbesen (also Shark)

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt
Extremely difficult, narrow icefall with mixed-climbing. First climbed by Eder Stefan and Hans Streng. Rock climbing gear (Camalot up to size 3, pitons and slings) is absolutely essential.
 
Risk of avalanches: yes

Plangeroß / Reiselehn

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt
Airy climbing after ascent with backcountry skis. Ice gully with steep middle part.
 
Risk of avalanches: yes

Mittelberg / Rote Mure

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt
Ideal icefall which is also combinable with the Schneelehnfall.

Risk of avalanches: hardly
 

Mittelberg / Notwegfall

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt
3 beautiful and high-Alpine Icefalls, great for a day trip.

Risk of avalanches: yes
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