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Ice climbing in Pitztal

Ice climbing in Pitztal

Conquer Tyrol’s top ice climbing routes

Ice climbers are can’t wait for the cold season to start, when Tyrol’s waterfalls freeze and snow and ice rule in Pitztal. The valley’s 45 waterfalls usually freeze from December onwards and offer ice climbers ideal conditions to practise their sport until the end of March.

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Ice climbing guide
Ice climbing guide
Ice climbing route at Pitztaler Gletscher
Ice climbing route at Pitztaler Gletscher
Ice climbing gear
Ice climbing gear
Ice climbing for newcomers & advanced climbers in Pitztal
Ice climbing for newcomers & advanced climbers in Pitztal

Newcomers...

For newcomers to this adventurous hobby the Eis Total Festival in January, which is led by professional mountain guides is ideal. The varied ice climbing in the Taschachklamm [Klamm = gorge] with different levels of difficulty is especially suited. Ice climbing beginners will also find the Kitzgartenklamm with its 15 different ice climbing routes perfect during the cold winter season.

Advanced climbers...

Advanced climbers will find an exceptional variety of ice climbing routes in Pitztal in Tyrol. Some of the most spectacular routes boast up to 190 metres icefall and can, in parts, be easily accessed with a short ascent from the valley. Athletes can find the highest ice climbing routes of Tyrol at Pitztal Glacier’s impressive ice world: six icefalls offer a breath-taking ice climbing experience in the eternal ice and snow. Ice climbing is possible all year around in some places here.

Current conditions at the icefalls...

Pitztal’s mountain guides will happily provide information about the weather and avalanche conditions at the icefalls. You can find more information here: Ice News (in German)

Professional courses...

They also offer professional courses regarding ice-climbing technique. Equipment such as ice axes and crampons can be hired from our outdoor specialists at the same time.

Ice climbing in the ice world at Pitztaler Gletscher
Ice climbing Pitztaler Gletscher

All ice climbing routes, access and signposting regarding the icefalls are included in the sports climbing guide Sportklettern – Klettersteige – Eisklettern published by AMBerg Verlag. You can order the sports climbing guide directely in our webshop. Furthermore you can find the Ice climbing topographies of Pitztal here (in German). Those who still haven’t had enough of ice climbing can burn off more energy at an indoor climbing centre, the Kletterstadl in Stillebach.

Vord. Pitztal / Rauchenbichl

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt

Two very difficult, demanding icefalls above the village of Wiese.

 

Climbing time: 2-3 hours

Descent: 40 minutes - Descend:

At the exit of the left icefall, walk up diagonally to the left through the forest to the hamlet Rehwald. Then along the forest road, one hairpin down until you reach a path on the left which leads back to the parking area.

At the right icefall, ascend ca. 30 meters to the forest road.

Vord. Pitztal / Kitzgartenschlucht

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt

The Kitzgartenschlucht offers a great variety of ice climbing possibilities. It is the ideal ice climbing garden in case of bad weather or avalanche danger.  Good opportunities for ice climbing courses. There are ca. 20 ice and mixed-climbing routes in various levels of difficulty

 

Climbing time: 1 hour

Descent: 10 minutes - Abseiling:

Abseiling via the different routes.

Vord. Pitztal / Mauerköpflfall

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt

Beautiful, moderately difficult, not too steep icefall. The steep passages are interrupted by flat stretches

 

Climbing time: 2-3 hours

Descent: 30 minutes - Abseiling and descend.

From the exit go to the right down a very steep forest (partly abseiling) to the entry point.

Vord. Pitztal / Stallkogelfall

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt

Enormous, wide ice shield above Scheibrand.

 

Climbing time: 2-3 hours

Descent: 30 minutes - Abseiling.

Via the Icefalls with Ablakov threads and along the trees.

Pitztal Mitte / Eggenstallfall

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt

Compact, moderately difficult, not too steep icefall.

 

Climbing time: 1 hour

Descent: 20 minutes - Abseiling and descend:

From the exit 50 meters towards the left down a very steep forest (partly abseiling) to the entry point.

Pitztal Mitte / Pfitschenfall

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt

Short, steep and very demanding icicle, which is rarely totally frozen.

 

Climbing time: 1-2 hour

Descent: 20 minutes - Abseiling or descend:

At the exit to the right to a tree and abseiling with Ablakov threads. Otherwise, walk to the left from the exit along the very steep forest in a gully down to the starting point.

Vord. Pitztal / Dorfbach Jerzens

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt

Short, easy icefall below the village of Jerzens. Reachable by descending through the forest or by abseiling above the icefall.

 

Climbing time: 1 hour

Descent: 15 minutes - Abseiling from the trees at the starting point

Vord. Pitztal / Silberkönig

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt

Three extremely difficult, demanding icefalls. Possibility of top-rope. Since a few years, there is almost no water running down the wall from the Gasthof Schön. Hence, very little to no ice. Partly mixed-climbing.

Left: Eisprinz WI 6-

Middle: Eiertanz WI 6

Rechts: Silberkönig WI 6+

 

Climbing time: 60 minutes

Descent: 15 minutes - Abseiling.

Vord. Pitztal / Grasler

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt

Moderate difficult, short icefall in the forest opposite the village of Schön. The icefall can only be reached via abseiling.

 

Climbing time: 45 minutes

Descent: 25 minutes - Descent to the right ca. 100m slightly diagonally downward and in a wide arc until the path of the Pitzeschlucht.

Vord. Pitztal / Wasserleitungsfall

Ausgangspunkt
Endpunkt

Medium-level icefall opposite the village of Schön. The icefall can only be reached via abseiling.

 

Climbing time: 45 minutes

Descent: 15 minutes - Abseiling via the trees at the entry point.

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